Trekking To Gosaikunda Pass (Frozen Lake) 4380 Meters

Hello Everybody, I am going to share my trekking Experience of Gosaikunda pass, as per I can remember all the moments of trekking I will try to share.

After completion of our big festival Dashain, we decided for an adventurous trekking towards Gosaikunda pass, on this trek we were 4 people, Aashish Raj Dali, Gaurab Pradhan (me), Mukesh Maharjan and Rupesh dai. We had limited time and limited budget, so according to our time and budget we had customized our trekking route. All of us were excited for this trekking, we decided to move on October 16, 2011, we took bus ticket from Machapokhari, Balaju, Kathmandu, 3-4 days ago because it was tourist season.

Duration: 6 Days

Budget per person:  Around Rs. 5000

Max. Altitudes: 4610 M 

Starting Point: Dhunche

Ending Point: Chanaute

Short Description about Gosaikunda

Gosaikunda is located at an altitude of 4,380 m (14,370 ft.) in the Rasuwa District, which is a part of Langtang trek, one of the famous trekking routes in Nepal. Gosaikunda is also a religious site for a hindu religion. It is popular among tourist as a Frozen Lakes.

Day 1 (16 Oct. 2011) Kathmandu to Dhunche

On First Day of our trip we had an adventurous local bus ride from Kathmandu to Dhunche along with Trishuli which took about 8 hours ride, where we experienced the thrilling narrow rough roads. During our ride, we had a company of locals as well as some foreigner people in the bus. Interacting with the foreigners during the bus trip definitely added some good time in our trip. During the interaction, we came to know that one of the foreigners had lost his wallet on the bus so all the passenger inside the bus started to look for his wallet but unfortunately no one found. After that incident we were also aware and checked our stuff. But unfortunately, Ashish’s wallet was missing so we started looking for it. All of us were in a tensed situation because we lost about Rs 10,000 which was definitely a huge amount to lose before starting our trip. So we started looking for it but we didn't find the wallet. I was collecting money before we started out trip except Ashish everybody gave, ashish was planning to give his money to me in Dhunche, but he lost his wallet, all of us were worried about his wallet and the trip.

As the road was rough and it was a hilly road with lots of turning and bus was full of passengers which made me motion sick. By the time we reached Trishuli for lunch and I directly went in front of the bus and start looking under seat, at the middle row of bus between seat there was some luggage so I went near that luggage and checked on the side of luggage I found Ashish’s wallet every one of us was happy and we went to take a lunch, as I was not feeling good inside bus so I and rupesh dai decided to go on the roof of the bus, we both had good and bad experience on the roof of the bus. Road from ktm to dhunche was really danger, before reaching dhunche we have to cross a place called Ramche, road of the ramche was completely off, and it was a landslide area, after crossing ramche safely we had an minor accident.

Finally we reached Dhunche, and we started searching hotel. We stayed at Dragon hotel, where we took one room with 4 beds, after taking rest we went out of hotel to walk around Dhunche. We enjoyed the beautiful views there. We had a great time where we click some pictures and had a mustang coffee for the first time. Mustang coffee is hot local alcohol with ghee and Lovage (Jwanu in nepali), Then we had our dinner in a local restaurant which was great. And back to the hotel for night stay where we exchanged our feelings about first day trip with each other and made plans for next day trip. After that we went back to bed early because we was tired from the long bus ride as well as we have to wake up early in the morning.

Day 2 (17 Oct. 2011) Dhunche to Laurebinayak

With all the excitement for our next destination, we waked up early in the morning about

5:00 AM and prepared ourselves for the real trekking as we were about to walk whole day. It was our first trekking to all of us, we were excited. Our destination was to reach Gosaikunda. After our breakfast we started walking at 6.30 AM with full energy, I was carrying two bags one from back and other from front, after few minutes later we reached at the entry point of our trekking, there was a hoarding board by Langtang National Park where there  were  information about Altitude Sickness. From last one month, before starting our journey I have done few researches on Altitude sickness so I was prepared and aware as well as I made aware to others as well, for more information about altitude sickness you can check my previous post click here. 

                Mukesh and I was leading the road, Rupesh dai was slow because he had a problem with his leg so ashish gave him a company, finally after few hours I don’t remember the exact time we reached at the Deurali, in front of us there was Deurali’s Uphill (Deurali ko Ukalo), it was straight uphill and we heard from lots of people it is one of the tough part of trekking.

After Deurali, we reached at Dhimsa(3030 M) in the mid-day, to reach Dhimsa it took 4 to 5 hours for us from Dhunche, we decided to take our lunch over there, Dal Bhat (Neplai food) Power 24 Hours, we ordered our lunch, until lunch was ready, we were enjoying views from Dhimsa , clicking some pictures, looking the map and calculating time to reach our destination, by the time our lunch was on our table without wasting time we ate our lunch and then took rest for a while and again we was ready for our destination.

  

After 2 hours we reached ChandanBari, it is also known as shin gumba, Chandanbari is a beautiful place which lies at 3330 M. There was very few guest houses and all of them were full by Foreigners, in Chandanbari there is a cheeses factory it’s a yak chesses, we purchased cheeses and enjoyed it, after that we again start walking. Suddenly there was a change on climate and we felt something falling from the sky that was our first snow fall. After that we reached to Chyolangpati and it started raining, it was heavy rain fall with hailstones, we could not walk on that rain so we took rest on Chyolangapati there were only 2 Tea House with limited rooms, we entered into the first tea house, tea house was full of Foreigners, guide and potters. We was feeling cold so we went near fire and ordered teas, we were waiting for rain to stop and continue our trek, but there was no sign of that so while waiting we had conversation with guides, One of the guide was sharing his experience of trekking he looks like Sherpa, while chatting with him we asked are you Sherpa or Tamanag? He said no, I am Newar, then we were shocked, he said I am Shrestaa not Shrestha , and then we asked are they different we know only Shrestha we have never heard about Shrestaa then he added yes they are different, environment was getting more friendly by the time, after 3 hours rain fall was over and we decided to continue our trek, Mr. Shrestaa said today you guys cannot reach Gosaikunda, you guys can reach up to Laurebinayak, after few hours it will get dark and don’t walk in dark, it may be danger. He said us to stay there, although on that Tea House all rooms were full he said you guys can sleep on the dining hall. But according to our time and budget limitation we decided to continue our trek at least we could reach to Laurebinayak for night stay. Now all of us was ready to walk again, we said good bye to all of them, and we stored that lovely moment of 3 hours in our mind, although we were out of schedule by 3 hours, but that moment was best.

                Slowly it was getting dark, we did not have enough torch light so it was difficult to walk,  Mukesh was giving company to Rupesh dai so they were slow, me and Ashsih increased our speed, in front of us there was uphill road we climbed it as soon as possible even though we were tired we did not take any rest and continued walking, finally we saw some lights coming from and went over there that was a lodge and we were in Laurebinayak at 3910 M and it was 7:00 pm, completely dark, Ashsih just threw his bag and took rest, I went inside the hotel before I entered one Israeli guy opened the door and spoke in Hebrew, he thought I was Israeli too, I said him I am nepali, then he said oh Sorry !! come inside its cold out there, I entered into lodge, inside lodge on a dining hall there were lots of foreigner, few Nepali trekkers, guide and potters, I directly went to counter and asked the owner whether there is a room for a night stay for 4 people?? Hotel owner said we have only one room, it will be enough for 4 people, then I asked for the key, by the time Ashish, Mukesh and Rupesh Dai came inside the hotel, we went to our room and then came back to the dining room, we were also involved in that group, we also shared our whole day experience, Nepalese trekkers group were surprised that we came from Dhunche to Laurebinayak in one day, those people were senior than us. We ordered food for dinner Nepalese trekkers group offered us Yak Dry Meat (Yak ko Sukuti) without feeling shy we enjoyed our rice with yak dry meat, and later on they also offered us Hot Rice Alcohol. Well drinking alcohol at high altitude is not good, you get altitude sickness, but we thought single glass will not be a problem and it will make our body warm as well so me, ashsih and rupesh dai took one of those and went to bed early, all of us was too tired and it was freezing cold. It was too cold we could not sleep well. It was first night at 3910 M.

Day 3 (18 Oct. 2011) Laurebinayak to Phedi

It was 5.00 AM when we waked up, outside all the tables and chairs was full of snow, by seeing those snow and beautiful Langtang we forget our pain, with this excitement we got ready for our next destination.

At the beginning Due to cold it was little bit difficult for us because we did not have any good trekking gears, we had no gloves, no good shoes etc. Anyway we managed with what we have. After climbing uphill we reached to the temple. There was a religious belief that we have to leave laurow (Wooden Stick) that we have used in our trek on that temple and go without it upto Gosaikunda. And we did same things. We enjoyed good view of Ganesh Himal (Mountain) and Langtang from that temple. You can imagine the combination of White Mountain with morning sun rays.

There was narrow road, so we start walking more carefully, after few hours walk, we saw small lake on the way, that lake was saraswatikund, and then next to saraswatikund we saw another lake, it was BhairavKunda, which was black and it looks scary. And after walking few distance we saw small part of lake, well that was Gosaikunda, all of was happy and paused for a while by seeing the beautiful lakes, we reached to Tea House, ordered tea and we gave our noodles to cook and took rest by enjoying surrounding. Gosaikunda is on 4380 m, there were only 3-4Lodges. In Gosaikunda area there are 108 lakes altogether, it was not possible for us to see all the lakes on short period of time. After eating our noodles, we went to Gosaikunda for a holy bath, Gosaikunda is not only tourist place it is also a religious place. Although it was too cold we did not cared about it and took fast bath on the side of lake, after taking bath all of us was feeling good, it was like as if our energy was recharged. We spend few hours in Gosaikunda, took few photographs from normal digital camera, we wish if we had a DSLR camera we would click more beautiful pictures and then again we were ready to move, our destination for day was phedi.

Now our challenge for a day was Laurebinayak pass which is at 4610 m, we had to climb up to reach Laurebinayak pass and it was a rocky trail. On the way to phedi from Gosaikunda we saw few more lakes. Among those lakes I remember only some lakes Surya Kund, Buddha Kund and other beautiful lakes. In between Gosaikunda and Phedi there are no tea Houses and lodge. We had carried enough dry food like noodles, Flattened rice also known as beaten rice (in nepali Chiura), Gundruk’s pickle (fermented leafy green vegetable), snickers, mars etc.  With the beautiful view we enjoyed our food and started walking. 

At 3 or 4 pm we reached to our destination phedi, at 3730 m. We booked the room and ordered food for lunch. After that we went to our room for some rest, by that time we asked a bottle of hot water for which we have to pay about RS 300 per bottle but as we are Nepali so the owner provide us free and we made coffee from that and enjoyed that evening with some good hot coffee. It was same menu in Phedi as well, so after our lunch, we took some rest in our room and were planning for next day trek and I was calculating the expenses till now and remaining budget.

                                  

          

Day 4 (19 Oct. 2011) Phedi to Mangengoath

As usual we waked up early and got ready for today’s destination, according to map we had forecasted about today’s trek and came to conclusion that today it will not be tough trek in compare to before, form the place where stayed for night (Phedi) we could see some roof of tea house on Ghopte which is at 3430 m. We planned to take our day lunch over there.

After clearing the entire bill, we slowly left phedi, after few hours walk, we took rest and had some snack, chocolate bars and continued our trek enjoying the beautiful views on the way. On the way, we met a boy who was walking alone, his name was Shashi. He was travelling with his father and some tourists. We took some rest where the boy was sitting and had a conversation with him, he was studying in Kathmandu at grade 9 and coincidently his school was near to our college. Then we walked together sharing all the experience we had during pass days. Finally after we reached Ghopte (3430 m) and took some rest and ordered potato momo for our lunch, we spend few times at ghopte and started walking. On the way, my bag was torn, so I shifted all the belongings to another bag and friend’s bag, and then I threw that bag on the way, anyway I was more comfortable with one bag.

We were climbing up to reach Thadepati 3690 m; it was on height than ghopte. After reaching Thadepati we took rest and enjoyed tea and chowmin, after few minutes we met Sashi’s family, Sashi’s father said us to stay at Thadepati and continue trek with them through helambu trekking route which will take few more days to reach Kathmandu. We had very limited time so we did not join them and continued our trek. After few hours we reached our destination of the day Mangengoath (3420 m). We took 2 rooms to stay, after taking rest we started planning our next day trip, our plan was to walk up to sundarijal but rupesh dai had problem in his leg, so we made changes in our plan, and according to our new plan tomorrow we have to reach Chanaute village and we will stay night over there and take bus to Kathmandu on next day. At night we had a great time with the other guest, talking with them, sharing our trekking experience as well as listening theirs too. By that time, our dinner was ready, after having dinner we went to bed early.

Day 5 (20 Oct. 2011) Mangengoath to Chanaute

Today was our last day of trek, as usual we waked up and did our daily routine stuff and got ready for trek. At 7.00 am we started walking from mangengoath. As we were climbing down slowly altitude was decreasing and we could feel differences.

          After 3-4 hours we reached Kutumsang (2470 m), that place was our turning point, form kutumsang our plan A’s and plan B’s routes get separated. We had our lunch over there and spend few times there. We collected little information about our way to Chanaute with the locals and we were ready to go ahead. We were walking by the help of local people because it was quite confusing route, there wear lots of linked road. We were walking through a forest. The forest was quite dense and we felt like we were lost in that jungle, but not worried, there was simple logic because our destination was at lower altitude so we should climb down. After few hours of walking on the forest, we saw few clothes throwing on trees, by seeing that we were little bit afraid and alert and continue our walk more carefully. Finally we crossed forest safely, and reach a village. From that village, we headed toward chanaute village. At that time we took wrong route but fortunately we saw one school boy, we took his help to find our to chanaute bazzar. For that help, we gave him a packet of wai wai noodles and some chocolates. After walking few hours, we saw water pipe line, which made us happy, we followed that pipe line and after sometime we saw a beautiful river flow near the small bazzar, we met some people and asked them the name of that river, they said that was Indrawati but that was not the right name of that river. Then we move down to the village which our final destination was called Chanaute village (1360 m). We were stranger at Chanaute, everybody was looking at us. We were in search of hotel to stay, and we found one from where we got the correct name of the river Melamchi, we took 2 rooms on that beautiful cottage. There was electricity so all of was hurry to charge cell phone and camera. As today was our last day of trek so we decided to celebrate, we went at bank of Melamchi River and order beer and enjoyed it with beautiful Melamchi River. We had really wonderful dinner at Chanaute with local chicken. We asked local people about the bus to Kathmandu, they told at 7.00 AM you will get first bus to Kathmandu. All of us were too tired so we went to bed early, and tomorrow we need to wake up early to catch first bus.

Day 6 (21 Oct. 2011) Chanaute to Kathmandu

Last day to trip, all of was sad to be back in regular schedule. As usual we waked up early and got ready and we went near bridge and wait for the bus. Finally Bus arrived and went inside the bus. It was 3-4 hours bus ride to Kathmandu and we finally reached Kathmandu back to home sweet home.

Last Word
It was really one of the best moments and great experience. Travelling is the process of learning new things, so whenever you get time start travelling.

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” 
― Augustine of Hippo

Thanks for reading this post, I will soon post my next trekking experience of Annapurna Circuit. Please like and comment this post with your views.

At last I would like to thank Mukesh for helping me to write this post.

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Altitude Sickness Info

Altitude sickness often known as acute mountain sickness (A.M.S.) in general may occur when people ascend too quickly normally in altitudes of over 3000 m. We ensure minimal risk by building in rest days into our trekking itineraries. Most people will feel some effect of altitude, shortness of breath and possibly a light headed, which is fairly common. Acute mountain sickness is very different and normally involves a severe headache, sickness and loss of awareness. In almost every potential case there are enough warning signs to take appropriate action.

Our expert and trained guides will advise you about any health requirements and also altitude sickness while you are trekking, so you should not worry about it, we do however recommend you get advice from you travel doctor or health adviser before you leave. The following information gives you an idea about high altitude sickness and how to minimize the affects

There are three stages of altitude sickness and symptoms.

1. Normal AMS Symptoms - Should expect but not worry.

Following are the normal altitude symptoms that you should expect but not be worried about. Every trekker will experience some or all of these, no matter how slowly they ascend.

- Periods of sleeplessness.

-Need more sleep than normal (often 10 hours or more)

-Occasional loss of appetite.

-Vivid, wild dreams especially at around 2500-3800 meters in altitude.

-Periodic breathing.

- The need to rest/catch your breath frequently while trekking, especially above 3500 meters.

-Runny nose.

-Increasing urination while moving to/at higher altitudes (a good sign)

- Dizziness.

2. Mild AMS Symptoms - NEVER GO HIGHER

Many trekkers in the high valleys of the Himalaya get mild AMS, admit or acknowledge that you are having symptoms. You need have only one of the following symptoms to be getting altitude sickness.

-Mild headache.

-Nausea

-Dizziness.

-Weakness.

-Sleeplessness.

-Dry Raspy cough.

-Fatigue/Tired.

-Loss of apatite.

-Runny nose.

-Hard to breath.

What to do if a mild symptom doesn’t go way?

-If you find mild symptoms developing while walking, stop and relax (with your head out of sun) and drink some fluids. Drink frequently.

-If mild symptoms developing while walking, stop have rest, drink some fluids and take 125-250mg Diamox. Diamox generally takes one to four hours to begin alleviating symptoms. Drink more water and consider staying close by.

-If symptoms develop in the evening, take 125-250mg Diamox and drink plenty of fluids again.

-If symptoms partially go away but are still annoying it is safe to take another 250mg Diamox 6-8 hours later.

-If mild symptoms continue getting worse try descending for a few hours which may be more beneficial than staying at the same altitude. Going higher will definitely make it worse. You’re here to enjoy trekking not to feel sick.

3. Serious AMS Symptoms - IMMEDIATE DESCENT

-Persistent, severe headache.

-Persistent vomiting.

-Ataxia (loss of co-ordination, an inability to walk in a straight line, making the sufferer look drunk)

-Losing consciousness (inability to stay awake or understand instructions)

-Mental confusion or hallucinations.

-Liquid sounds in the lungs.

-Very persistent, sometimes watery, cough.

-Difficulty breathing.

-Rapid breathing or feeling breathless at rest.

-Coughing clear fluid, pink phlegm or blood (a very bad sign).

-Severe lethargy/fatigue.

-Marked blueness of face and lips.

-High resting heartbeat (over 130 beats per minute)

-Mild symptoms rapidly getting worse.

Dangerous cases of AMS

High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)

This is a build-up of fluid around the brain. It In most cases the first five symptoms on the mild and severe lists previously. Coma from HACE can lead to unconsciousness are death within 12 hours from the onset of symptoms, but normally takes 1-2 days to develop. At the first sign of ataxia begin treatment with medication, oxygen and descent. Usually 4 to 8mg of dexamethasone is given as a first does, then 4mg every six hours, Diamox every 12 hours and 2-4 liters /minute oxygen. Descent is necessary but a PAC (portable altitude chamber) bag will often be used first if available.

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)

This is an accumulation of fluid in the lungs and is very serious. It is responsible for all the other mild and serious symptoms and it is often accompanied by a mild fever. By far the treatment is oxygen at 4 liters a minute but using PAC (portable altitude chamber) bag treatment is a good substitute. If there is no PAC bag or oxygen then descent will be life saving. HAPE can lead to unconsciousness are death very quick.

Prevention of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)

- Allow sufficient time for acclimatization (After 3000 meters).

- Don’t make rapid Ascent. Don’t go too far too fast.

- No Alcohol, Sleeping pills and Smoking.

- Drink more fluid 3-4 Liters a day, clean water-boiled or treated / tea / coffee / soup / juice etc.

-Climb high and sleep low.

-Do not trek/travel alone, take guide/porter.

-Follow the advice from your guide, hotel, local, guide book.

- Descent if mild symptoms rapidly getting worse.

-Never leave or descent sick person along.

-Avoid getting cold.

-Take an easy and comfortable trekking route even if its longer.

First Aid Kit

This is the basic list to cover the more common ailments that affect trekkers. Climbing groups, expeditions and trekkers going to isolated areas will need a more comprehensive kit.

-Bandage for sprains

-Plasters/Band-aids

-Iodine or water filter (optional)

-Moleskin/Second skin - for blisters

-Antiseptic ointment for cuts

-Anti-bacterial throat lozenges (with antiseptic)

-Aspirin/Paracetamol - general painkiller

-Oral rehydration salts

-Broad-spectrum antibiotic (norfloxacin or ciprofloxin)

-Anti-diarrhea medication (antibiotic)

-Diarrhea stopper (Imodium - optional)

-Antibiotic for Guardia or similar microbe or bacteria

-Diamox 250/500mg (for altitude sickness)

-Sterile Syringe set (anti-AIDS precaution)

-Gel hand cleaner.

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